Tugela Lodge Winterton and the Spionkop Battle.

After a glorious eight nights in Clarens, we move ever closer to Durban, and our flight home. This time we are staying at Tugela River Lodge . We booked three nights here as the main reason for our visit is because we wanted to visit the Spionkop Battle field, one of the many battle sites in the area during the Anglo Boer wars. Our accommodation was in a lovely location, right on the rivers edge, it was a great location for watching bird life. There were some nice walks from the lodge, which our host Kyle told us about, but alas we could not do any, as the area has had so much rain of late that most were inaccessible, because of this. The lodge also has a wildlife reserve which we wanted to do, but because it was self drive and on an unmade road we decided against it as the track would have been extremely muddy and we did not want to risk getting bogged down

It was not all doom and gloom as in the evening we did witness some spectacular lightning storms off in the distance, from the comfort of our spacious balcony.

We booked our battle field tour with a guide who works out of Three Tree Hill. The lodge is situated in an idyllic location with views of the hill where the battle took place, and the beautiful surrounding countryside. Sitting there with a coffee before our tour, it was hard to imagine the carnage and loss of life that went on in such a lovely location. We both agreed that it would have been lovely to stay at the the lodge, but when we looked at the price per night it was well out of our price range. But I would definitely recommend taking the battle field tour from here. As our guide Pierre was excellent and very knowledgeable about South Africa’s military history.

Our morning started with Pierre explaining the different territories in South Africa which were occupied by various countries. The British, Dutch, and the Germans, explaining the infighting between the different nations for control. After our short talk in the stunning lodge library. We then were driven to the site for the start of our tour. At the entrance gate I could not help noticing that behind the girl at the desk was a Liverpool football Club scarf and pennant, I asked Pierre why they were there and he explained that at the football club, the stand in which die hard clubs supporters congregate is called the Kop, which I knew. It was named the Kop in 1900 in memory of the 300 men who died in the battle, many of which were from Liverpool. There is a really good article on Wikipedia detailing the events of the war. Click Here. Whilst walking around the site and looking at the different memorials dedicated to the different regiments involved, and the cairns marking the mass graves. I felt quite sad,because we should not have wars. In my opinion it’s only the soldiers involved in the fighting that are the ones that suffer. It isn’t the governments or powers to be, or the high ranking officers that get killed or maimed, it’s the soldiers that are sent to fight their cause that are the victims. The crazy thing is, in the Spionkop battle after both sides finished fighting, we learnt from Pierre that both sides helped one another bury their dead and care for the wounded. Madness.

A couple of interesting facts about the Spionkop battle was that, Sir Winston Churchill was there as a war correspondent. He was later captured by the Boers “more on that in my next post“. Also, Mahatma Gandhi was also there as a stretcher bearer in the Indian Ambulance Corps, which he organised and was decorated for it.

The tour costs £143 for two people. It included a light breakfast, coffee and a muffin. Hot and cold drinks on the tour and lunch when we returned. All in all very good value in my opinion.

The Beautiful Clarens

We decided to cut our stay in Kimberly short by three nights, as we had exhausted the things to do in the town. We had already booked accommodation in Clarens from Monday the 1st of January, so all we had to do was add three nights on somewhere, easy. No, as it was New Year’s Eve weekend everything was nearly booked up, we could not even add the extra nights on to where we had booked. So we found a nice little place in a town called Fourisburg, about a 20-minute drive from Clarens which had availability. When we arrived, we both thought that we do not want to stay here, we did not even look at the accommodation. What do we do now, we thought? So it was back on the internet to see if anything had come up since we searched last. Our only option was Marriott Protea at £126 per night. Ouch, so we had to swallow and take it.

Now, Clarens is one of the jewels in the crown of South Africa, it’s a real lovely place, with plenty of shops, some great restaurants, and an all round good vibe. So there is plenty to keep us occupied for our eight night stay. New years in Clarens was probably one of the best we have had in recent years. We had a lovely meal in the very popular restaurant called Clementines, which I can highly recommend, then we moved onto the Highlander for so we thought just a couple of drinks to see the New Year in, as I had indulged in a few too many the night before. But best laid plans and all that, this did not happen. We had a wonderful night, everyone was so friendly, great live music plenty of dancing, a real special night.

Another restaurant I would recommend is called Treats, It’s a hotel as well. Now for those not aware, South Africa is a big meat eating country, and I love a decent steak. I ordered a 300g rib eye, which came with mash and vegetables. I swear, when it arrived, it was about an inch and a half thick and took up half the plate. Jackise had a cape Malay curry. We both had three courses and a large glass of wine each, for the princely sum of £36.00. I swear my steak alone would have cost that on its own. Also, it would not have been half the size. South Africa is still amazing value as you can see.

There are also some great walking trails around Clarens to do, some quite strenuous, some which are more sedate. We chose the more sedate option, one which went to the lake, or dam, which they are known in South Africa, a really nice walk. You can pick up a trail map in any of the towns shops or restaurants for 50 rand (about £2).

There is plenty to do around outside Clarens, so today we decided to visit Lionsrock Big Cat Sanctuary. The sanctuary is part of the Four Paws international animal welfare group, who do some amazing work around the globe. The drive to Lionsrock was once again on unmade roads again, I’m really getting used to off-road driving. Something that I will not be taking up back in the UK, I value what teeth I have left too much. The day tour consists of a game drive around the park, and our ticket included lunch. It was an amazing day, seeing the animals and learning about the incredible work they do. All the animals have come from either zoos that have closed down, or have been shut down, Circuses, or from unscrupulous collectors, mainly in Eastern Europe. We left there with a tinge of sadness owing to the fact that there are still a lot of animals in the world that are being kept in horrific conditions, and angry of the fact that there is still an unscrupulous trade in wildlife around the globe, but also upbeat that there are still organisations like Four Paws out there doing some amazing work.

Another great park nearby is the Golden Gate Highland Park, which is a must-visit. The drive through the park is stunning, magnificent views along the way. There are plenty of hiking trails here also. They range in various levels of difficulty. We decided to take the one to Echo Ravine. It was a steady climb to about 850 metres, over some tough terrain. I was so grateful of the walking poles that Jackie bought me, the climb would have been impossible for me without them. After our hike, we took the two scenic drives that are near the park, which afford great views over the park. There is also a vulture hide which you can visit. It was our second visit here, our first being in 2019, but alas no vultures once again, the hide is getting pretty run down now so I very much doubt the vultures come any more. It is free to drive through the park, also to do the scenic drives, but if you want to do any of the walking trails you have to pay, it is a nominal amount, but you do get a map of the trails which are helpful.

For some delicious cheese, visit a place called Baris Monger. Located on a beautiful farm just outside Clarens. You can stay there or just go for food. The cheese plater is delicious, they also make ice cream to finish off with.

We had an amazing time in Clarens it is possibly one of our favourite places out there, apart from the Kruger that is. Well, it’s time to move on to our next destination, Tugala Lodge, near Winterton. Moving ever closer to Durban and our flight home.

Kimberly and The Big Hole

It was time to move on from the amazing Tankwa Karoo National Park, and leave the absolute peace and tranquility behind us, and head for Kimberly. Famed for its huge open source hand dug diamond mine belonging to the De’Beers diamond company. Our journey once again to us on kilometre after kilometre of rough dirt roads. They seemed endless.

Our stay in Kimberly was over the Christmas period. As we approached Kimberly we both looked at each other and said why did we come here. The place looked really neglected, there was rubbish everywhere, and it had the feel of a run down dead town. We arrived at our accommodation where we were staying for eight nights, Oleander Guesthouse for Christmas and New Year. It was in a quiet street on the edge of town it looked very nice from the outside, and equally as nice inside. Our room was really large and spacious. The main house was beautiful, with an added bonus of having an excellent restaurant serving amazing food. This made us feel a little better about Kimberly. We both thought surely it cannot be as bad as our first impression. But alas it was.

One of the main reasons to visit was to see The Big Hole, the diamond mine and the old town surrounding it. There were also a couple of museums we wanted to see. The McGregor Museum and the Duggan Cronin Gallery. The McGregor museum was very interesting. Housed in a former sanitarium, then a Hotel. It was really worth the visit. 50 rand entrance, about £2. The house itself needs some restoration. It would be a shame to see a building like this fall into decay. The ground floor is mostly about South Africa’s political past, and the first floor the country’s involvement in its various wars.

Unfortunately the Duggan Cronin Gallery was closed. Which was a shame as it was mainly a photographic gallery, and photography is one of my passions.

The Big Hole. We had high hopes for this visit not just because of seeing a Big Hole, but to learn about its inception, also to see the old town around it. The De-Beers diamond mine, which I will now call it, is a worth while visit. Entrance to the old town part is free. It’s very interesting to see the various buildings from back in 1871. Banks, diamond dealer offices, bars, shop etc etc. a fascinating place. The only fee paying element of the visit is to see the open cast diamond mine itself. Cost is 100 rand pp, just over £4. Included in the entrance is a short film about the mine’s history and a trip down a mine, which was dug after no more diamonds were discovered in the open mine. There is also an excellent museum. We came away feeling quite down hearted. Mainly because the workers who dug the hole, by hand I add, were no more than very low paid slaves, Making the owner Mr Cecil Rhodes a very, wealthy man. The name of his company De-Beers, was the name of the farm which the mine was on. For more information on the history of the mine. Click Here.

We also visited the Magersfontein Battlefield. About a half hour forty minutes drive from Kimberly. It’s where another battle took place in the second Anglo Boer war. The roads to get to it are a little rough so be warned. Onsite there is a small museum, also you can watch a short film depicting that night on the 11th Dec 1899. There is also a viewing platform overlooking the battlefield. Now I have no interest in war and the suffering its causes, but I find history fascinating. Sitting down at the viewing platform made me feel sad. Just thinking about the many lives that were lost, and the suffering of the wounded. All because my country wanted to govern South Africa. In my opinion we could not govern ourselves then and we cannot govern ourselves now.

Tankwa Karoo National Park

The next stop on our South Africa road trip was a completely new adventure for us, as we have never explored the Northern Cape on our previous two visits to South Africa. Tankwa Karoo National Park, which, is around a 200 mile journey from Cape Town, most of which is on unmade roads. So we decided to cut short our stay in Cape Town by one night to split the journey up. We looked at the map and decided that a place called Ceres was around the halfway mark. We booked a night in a really lovely place called The Olive Tree and Lemon Tree cottages. We stayed in the Olive Tree. It was delightful. We could not believe how much it was for the night, just £36. Ceres, is a real nice quaint little place. We could have quite easily stayed longer.

We set off early the next day for our journey to the park, and it was not long before we hit the unmade road. It was just mile after mile bump after bump of being shaken around. We looked at each other and said that we hope the journey is worth it.

Let Me Point Out. That to visit the Tankwa Karoo park you really must have a SUV with a good ground clearance at the very least. A 4×4 would be much better. We had a Hyundai Venue which was okay.

Jackie had seen on the internet a place called Tankwa Padstal (Padstal in SA means general store) which looked really bizarre. The images were of a half buried car, a crashed spaceship, and lots of other wacky stuff. We were really surprised when around a halfway point on our journey we came across it. It was great. There was a store, a pub and a small cafe. Completely in the middle of nowhere, and nothing around it for miles.

So we had to stop. We had some lunch and a good look around the place, it was amazing. Unfortunately the pub was closed so I could not take any photos. You will find the Padstal if you are travelling on route 355 going to the park.

We arrived at the park office to check in and collect our keys. Where we were staying, Elensburg Wilderness Camp was a further 20km on, you guessed it on more unmade roads.

But when we finally arrived we were blown away. We could not believe how lovely the place was. Complete with a plunge pool. It truly was in the wilderness. I recommend booking through the SanParks website. We had an amazing three nights here. Just being in the middle of nowhere was exhilarating. We were blown away by the night skies They were spectacular, made so much better with no light pollution. There is not much to see in the way of wildlife in the park, just the odd deer. But we saw plenty of bird life. Also plenty of small rodents going about their daily business. We left a small bowl of water by the pool each day, then just sat watching the birds coming and going for their daily drink. I urge anyone who is visiting the Northern Cape to visit Tankwa Karoo you certainly will not be disappointed.

What a view from our shower

The next stop on our road trip is Augrabies Falls National Park. So stayed tuned.

The lovely Cape Town

We have finally arrived in Cape Town, where Jackie’s friend Debby leaves after our seven night stay, and we carry on for another month. Debby really loved her first trip to South Africa. We had so many laughs along the way, and she loved seeing the wildlife, even the scary encounters with the elephants in Addo. Our accommodation was very nice, albeit a little out of town. During our time in the city we just did the tourist thing. A trip up Table Mountain, visiting Simon’s town to see the African Penguins. We did not visit Robben island as we had been before. But I strongly recommend going if visiting the city. This time we spent more time exploring the V&A waterfront. What really was strange was seeing a huge Christmas Tree, whilst walking around in tee shirt and shorts in the gorgeous warm sunshine.

There is so much to see and do in the city, so I will just list a must do’s

This is not an exhaustive list. Just a few in which we have visited. I recommend purchasing you tickets online for both Robben island and Table Mountain. Table mountain tickets allow for one return trip and can be taken on any day within the seven days of purchase. This allows for bad weather, or if the mountain is covered by cloud. The locals call this “its table cloth”

Notable restaurants in and around Cape Town where the food was good, were

Stellenbosch is about a hour’s drive away but it’s worth it. Lots of old style buildings, really nice shops and restaurants. And of course it’s a great wine region. I can recommend eating in Helena’s Restaurant the food was delicious.

Boulders Beach Penguin Colony.